Demiurgiac Designs
1933 1934 1935 1936 Chevrolet repaired and reproduction tail light parts for sale
Contact:
Dave Garner
(916) 276-7717
demiurgiacdesigns@sbcglobal.net
About Polyurethane |
 |
Polyurethane(PU) is light, strong, very easy to machine, drill, sand, and grind. (Just be sure and wear a good respirator when grinding/sanding!). As you can see here, it drills like real soft steel. Even painting is easy as long as you use a use a good quality 'elastomeric' primer specifically designed for PU. While there are several good professional products out there, I use "SEM" high build primer surfacer and/or 39133 flexible primer surfacer. To fill or any other kind of finishing work I have found both JB Weld most typical body fillers combine with PU very nicely. To see some examples of working with this polyurethane, just click on the image. |
A cheap trick you can use with your incandesent lamps to increase your daytime stop/turn light output by about 40% |
 |
And all it takes is about 3 bucks at Radio Shack, a little solder and wire. This minor modification will result in a major increase in the visibility of your stop/turn indication during the day. Basically all it does is light up your tail light along with the normal stop/turn lamp. Bingo! you have just added around 40% more light for very little effort. And the best part is you can do it to any lamp assembly, old or new, theirs or mine! On a new build I would recommend doing this near your fuse box. For an existing vehicle, I would recommend doing this up inside the fender. Just purchase two sets of 2 diodes, Radio Shack part #276-1144 ( or equivalent) and make up the following for each side:
|
'33-34-35-36 Reproduction Polyurethane Bezels |
 |
As of the first of the year (2012) new stamped steel chrome (or bare) bezel's simply are not available from the usual retail outlets. No one seems to know when they will become available again. This means the only source is currently swap meets, eBay, etc. But here is another option. While these polyurethane reproductions are not exact duplicates, they are close and they are available. Click on the image to see the bezel mounted on a bucket.
|
'33-34-35 Standard Repaired original restored stands / buckets |
 |
When I can find them I purchase broken/rusty original stands/buckets/brackets and repair them. Click on the photo to see more. |
'33-34-35 Polyurethane reproduction stands and buckets |
 |
Reproduction stands and buckets. The buckets are primarily designed to be used with Lambert L.E.D. boards. Click on the photo to see more. |
The repaired original left short zinc stand |
 |
When I can find them I purchase broken original stands and repair them. Click on the photo to see more. |
The left bucket |
 |
Visually, these buckets are an exact duplicate of the original stamped item. However, this polyurethane (PU) bucket has some advantages. They are shipped with just a shallow 1/8" round indentation where the original holes for (1) securing the license lens, (2) securing the small (red lens to bucket) 'L' brackets and (3) the drain hole on the bottom are located. Since the license lens is glued in there is no need for the (2) 6-32 machines screws that originally held that lens in place. This allows the buyer to (1) drill out the holes and install 'dummy' machine screw for the original look or (2) fill them for the smooth look. The same is true for the red lens 'L' brackets. (Those nasty, rusty little 'L' brackets have been deleted). I ship 2 A/N aluminum 1/8th inch rivets if the buyer wants the original look. Just drill out the holes and epoxy the (dummy) A/N rivets in place. I never liked the original 'metal to glass' contact in the original bucket. With the thicker walled PU bucket, the glass mates to the bucket nicely. This item includes the (1) bucket, (2) the license lens (not installed), (3) on request, the two aluminum rivets, (4) two stainless 8-32 tap screws used to secure the red lens and, (5) if used on an original zinc stand, an 1/8" aluminum 'L' bracket used to fasten the bucket to the stand. Click on the photo to see more. The only thing missing will be rust! |
 |
Same as the left bucket (above) but without the license lens. This item includes the (1) bucket, (2) on request, the two aluminum rivets, (3) two stainless 8-32 tap screws used to secure the red lens and, (4) if used on an original zinc bucket, an 1/8" aluminum 'L' bracket used to fasten the bucket to the stand. Click on the photo to see more. |
 |
Same as the right bucket (above) but cast with an interior flange for the LED board to rest up against. Note that due the the heavier wall thickness of the Poly bucket the LED board requires a small amount of trimming. The trimming can easily be accomplished with a sanding block. Click on the photo to see more. |
 |
Visually, the stands are an exact duplicate of the original cast zinc item. But again, these polyurethane (PU) stands have a couple of advantages. They are cast with extra material on the 'stand to fender' base surface. What does this mean to you? For those who have already mounted a stand (left or right) you picked up somewhere, you were extremely lucky if it fit right where you wanted it to. There are so many variables... glass or metal fenders, normal or wide fenders, effect of body work on that area of the fenders, placement of the stand on the fender, etc. And of course, when using lights on both sides, just getting them to match properly can be frustrating. More often the stand points out, or down, or both, but not exactly where you want it to. To deal with this, the base was cast with extra thickness. Now the top of the base is the most visually critical part so there is no extra material there. But as you view the photo you can see where that extra material was added. Using an inexpensive ($3-4) site level you can see how to reshape the base to fit your particular application exactly as you want. Both original stamped buckets and these new poly buckets will work with this stand. More information is available by clicking on the photo. |
 |
The description of the long stand is basically the same as for the short stand shown above. Again, both the original stamped buckets and these new polyurethane buckets will work with this stand. Just like the short stand, this stand is manufactured with extra material at the (fender to stand) base. See the description of the short stand for a full explanation and a tutorial on how to install. Shown here in the thumbnail is a polyurethane long stand, bucket, and bezel. To view more detail click on the image. |
 |
Same description as the short/long stands (above) but for the left side and for street rod applications where the license plate has been relocated. View more images by clicking on the photo. |
The light assembly |
 |
The original 6 volt lamps were rated around 4 watts. The 12 volt replacements (for the original bayonet sockets) doubled that to around 8-9 watts. This all new aluminum assembly, combined with the plastic bases for the 'wedge' type (W5) lamps and the added reflective surfaces make for a bright, clean, rust and corrosion free compact unit that provides for both 6 and 12 volts several different wattages. The 6 volt wedge lamps have a rating of 5 watts. 12 volt wedge lamps are available in many different wattages. After some experimentation I determined that the '922' 12.5w lamp works well for the tail lamp and the '921' 17.9w '921' lamp works very nicely for the stop/turn lamp. (Those are what they ship with). I can offer up three choices here: 1. Original type 6 or 12 volt bayonet lamp holders for those that want to stay 'stock'. 2. This new 'wedge' type lamp holder that is much brighter and maintains the original look. 3. The Lambert LED boards that do not have the original look but appear to be on fire! To view an admitted "non-scientific" visual comparison chart click here. I found that to really optimize the amount of (incandescent) light the stop lamp puts out, the lamp itself has to be perfectly centered in that glass circle in the lower part of the red lens. This assembly is optimized to that purpose. I was amazed at how critical this is. Also, the lamp glass should be no further away than about 3/16" from the red lens. This careful positioning combined with this new design and much higher wattage lamp makes for a bright stop/turn indication.
|
 |
This is a reproduction in clear polyurethane of the original lens but with the legs extended which provides for a clean and easy method of attachment to the interior of the bucket. Simply place the lens in the left bucket, adjust to the desired position, drill and secure. Click on the photo to see more. |